Beloved India

We embarked in early November on a journey that, although we knew would be challenging, pushed us to overcome countless internal and external obstacles.

We arrived in Mumbai after a layover at Istanbul Airport. Tired and with little sleep, we spent the night at a hotel near the airport. In the afternoon, we took the opportunity to visit some interesting sites. Part of the group explored the surroundings, and later we gathered to visit the Gateway of India, a monumental arch completed in 1924, located on Mumbai’s waterfront. Built to commemorate the arrival of King George V for his coronation as Emperor of India in December 1911, the monument is situated on Strand Road, near Wellington Fountain.

Later that day, we tried to visit the Shri Siddhivinayak Ganapati Mandir, a temple dedicated to Ganesha. However, after walking barefoot for some time, we realized we would need to wait about an hour due to the large influx of visitors.

It was the penultimate night of Diwali, the Festival of Lights in India, which celebrates the victory of light over darkness and knowledge over ignorance. Diwali is associated with various religious episodes, deities, and personalities, such as Rama’s return to his kingdom in Ayodhya with Sita and Lakshmana after defeating the demon king Ravana. Other traditions link the festival to Vishnu, Krishna, Durga, Shiva, Kali, Hanuman, and other divine figures.

Back at the hotel, we watched the fireworks through our room window. The spectacle didn’t end at midnight; it went on through the night.

The following day, we were supposed to fly to Chennai. However, due to delays in reaching the airport and lengthy procedures, we missed the flight. We then traveled by bus to Tiruvannamalai, stopping overnight in Kolhapur.

Despite our accumulated exhaustion, arriving at Arunachala felt like coming home. That was the overwhelming sensation I felt. The mountain, regarded as Shiva’s abode, seems to protect the city and its inhabitants. Gazing at the beauty of Arunachala and visiting the caves where Ramana Maharshi meditated for years was a transformative experience, one that words cannot capture.

We also visited the Arunachalesvara Temple, dedicated to Shiva, located at the base of Arunachala Hill. This temple is one of the Pancha Bhuta Sthalas, associated with the five natural elements, and represents the element of fire, or Agni.

In the evening, despite limited time, we performed the Giripradakshina, a sacred 14-kilometer circumambulation of Arunachala Hill, this time by tuk-tuk. We were amazed by the number of pilgrims along the route and the many temples we encountered along the way.

The next day, we set out for Manjakuddi, the birthplace of Swami Dayananda, but not without first visiting the Nataraja Temple in Chidambaram. This temple is dedicated to Shiva in his form as the Lord of Dance, and its walls feature sculptures illustrating the 108 karanas described in Bharata Muni’s Natya Shastra, which form the foundation of Bharatanatyam, a classical Indian dance.

Arriving in Manjakuddi felt like reaching Swami Dayananda’s heart. The village exudes love, and Swami Ramesvarananda, a local resident, is a living example of this spirit. We attended Vedanta classes with Professor Paulo, and I had the opportunity to share devotional singing by chanting the 15th chapter of the Bhagavad Gita in a beautiful space where puja is performed daily for Swami Dayananda.

It was a blessing to visit the house where Swami Dayananda was born and to see how everything there—from the education of children to the spaces for study and sustainable agriculture—is done with immense care.

Two days later, we traveled to Rameswaram to visit the Ramanathaswamy Temple, one of the twelve jyotirlinga temples of India. This temple is notable for having the world’s longest corridor, with more than 4,000 pillars, and its 22 sacred wells (theerthas), each with special significance.

On the way to Rameswaram, we also visited the Brihadisvara Temple.

After a restful night, we headed to the Arsha Vidya Gurukulam in Anaikatti, near Coimbatore, where we stayed for four days. There, we continued our study of Vedanta with Professor Paulo and completed the chanting of the 15th chapter of the Bhagavad Gita. It was wonderful to meet Swami Sadatmananda Saraswati, who welcomed us with great humility and kindness.

We also had the opportunity to visit the Dakshinamurti Temple daily, explore the gallery dedicated to Swami Dayananda, the library, the Kalyana Subramanya (Murugan) temple, and the Veda Patashala, where children dedicate 10 years to studying the Vedas, among other activities.

We also visited the Swami Dayananda Jayavarthanavelu Ayurvedalaya, which offers Ayurvedic treatments and is absolutely stunning. Founded by Swami Dayananda in 2014, this Ayurvedic center is surrounded by mountains and forests. It’s a place worth visiting—and staying longer—for a more profound healing treatment.

Our final days were spent in Kerala, in Kochi, where we enjoyed an unforgettable boat ride. Some of us attended a Vedic astrology session at Ananda Jyoti’s home, where we also witnessed a ritual offering to Bhadra Kali.

We returned from India with full hearts. This country, with its paradoxes and contrasts, profoundly challenges us—and perhaps it is precisely because of this that it moves us so deeply.

I am deeply grateful to the organizers, Professor Paulo and Sónia, for their constant guidance throughout this journey, and to everyone who shared this experience.

Much remains unsaid and unshared, but I hope these words convey a glimpse of what India is—or can be—to those who visit.

It requires letting go of what we know and opening ourselves to another place, one that often takes away our comfort, silence, and tranquility.

A special thanks to my travel companions for their images, which helped illustrate this text.